The Gastro Guide to Deauville

The one thing guaranteed to get you through a hard day on the sales grind is the promise of a decent meal at the end of it, and in Deauville you will not be short of options. There have been a lot of changes on the gastronomic scene of late, and if you haven't visited the seaside resort for a couple of years, you are likely to find it hard to choose from the large array of enticing new venues. The Covid pandemic may have played its part, but not as much as the relentless appetite for innovation in a town that prides itself for setting trends, not following them, combined with a change of the guard in several of the most iconic eateries.

Fanfaron: the new Chez Hervé

I am guessing that many TDN readers might still, like me, be cherishing fond memories of some seriously unbridled parties at Chez Hervé. If you belong to this merry category, read on as you will be relieved to learn that this unique location, on Deauville's quaint market square, now plays host to a restaurant that does much more than continuing Chez Hervé's heritage: it is transcending it.

The new ringmaster is named Olivier Bertran de Balanda, brother to bloodstock agent Nicky and son of jumps trainer Jehan. After several years in Shanghai where his French bar was a huge hit with the younger generations, he and his multi-talented wife Fanny have worked their magic and roamed countless brocantes and flea markets to create a picturesque – should I say “instagrammable” – room and a vibrant atmosphere. 'A bistro of character with a strong personality, where a wind of madness and elegance blows,' as the website beautifully sums it up. Foodwise, the generous, flavour-rich plates of some of the most traditional – and least diet-compatible – French dishes, from blanquette de veau to sole meunière, bone marrow, lamb shoulder or tournedos Rossini, will satisfy the most solid appetites while the wine list is replete with family-owned, homegrown nectars from all parts of France at under-the-radar prices.

Le Drakkar and Le Central: new faces at the helm

While Fanfaron is certainly starting on a strong footing, the up-and-coming venue would still find it hard to compete with Le Drakkar when it comes to electing Deauville's most renowned restaurant. The unmistakable brasserie can claim credit for having hosted the Who's Who of racing from every corner of the world for many decades, a feat best evidenced by the fact that one of its many equine namesakes was a Grade 1 winner in South Africa. How many victories at the highest level, seven-figure yearling sales and stallion deals were celebrated underneath its historic wooden ceiling and on its cosy leather-covered benches is anyone's guess. A hint resides in the infamous quote by a former manager that 95% of the restaurant's stock of Château Cheval-Blanc, at no less than €800 a bottle, was drunk during the sole month of August.

Le Drakkar, along with its Trouville counterpart Le Central and fellow popular restaurants Marinette, L'Annexe and Les Mouettes, had been owned and run by prominent local figure Hervé Van Colen until his retirement in the summer of 2020 and the subsequent sale of the entire group to Thierry Bourdoncle, a serial entrepreneur in the gastronomy industry, already at the head of multiple iconic venues in Saint-Tropez, Paris, Megève, Cannes etc. As lockdown struck, the grandiose renovation works planned by the new owner were postponed, and it was only in May 2022 that an extended, brand-new and yet familiar Drakkar opened its doors again.

Under the guidance of the new chef Edouard Faure, the menu has been revamped and, some will regret, prices have taken some serious mark-ups as luxury delicacies have become house staples. While old favourites such as the locally grazed côte de boeuf still hold pride of place, guests are now spoilt for choice with some more southern flavours as well as fusion-food influences.

Just a few minutes away in Trouville, Le Central has also undergone a welcome renovation and remains one of the most reliable venues for fresh-off-the-boat sea food and bistro cuisine.

Not content with such sizeable investments, Thierry Bourdoncle has also laid his hands on the former Villa Gabrielle, enviably located just opposite the Normandy hotel. Renamed Les Planches, it serves classical Italian dishes to die for.

Marion and Arthur are the new generation 

Despite Bourdoncle's impressive takeover, the name Van Colen has not quite vanished from the Deauville scene. Hervé's daughter Marion has launched the eponymous brasserie on avenue de la République, where echoes of her father's unique hand for local products of the finest quality and traditional gourmet recipes will appeal to nostalgic souls. Her brother Arthur is also likely to come across many of racing's most prominent figures after taking over the infamous Le Cyrano café, where trainers, jockeys and fellow early birds flock for breakfast and light lunches.

Sospiro is the new taste of Italy

Before I get sued for causing a mental breakdown to numerous distinguished members of the racing community, among with the TDN's very own Sue Finley, let me make something crystal clear: Santa Lucia IS STILL operating, and truffle pizza is still on the menu. Yet my guess is that some just as distinguished TDN readers, including some with Italian blood, will agree that the food and ambiance have faded since the days of the larger-than-life Vincenzo Esposito.

I have good news for those who share this view. Just a few minutes from the Arqana sales complex, a hidden gem by the name of Sospiro serves the most authentic pasta, pizza and other dishes from Southern Italy and Sardinia. Need some bomb-proof evidence? This is where you are most likely to bump into leading Italian-born jockey Cristian Demuro during the Deauville race meeting. Disregard the clearly unassuming street view and wander through the main room to find the most charming terrace where you will instantly feel transported to Naples or Palermo. If you are part of a big party, rejoice, as you are in for an unforgettable treat: “pizza by the metre”. Easier eaten than said.

Will L'Institution become the new institution?

Facing the old-fashioned little garden that sits in front of Hotel Normandy, L'Institution is another new player in the upmarket segment. Sat in the vast Art Deco dining room, on the terrace, or in the intimate patio, indulge in a piece of matured meat grilled under your eyes or dig into a plethoric seafood platter. L'Institution is also famous for its cocktails, skilfully crafted by a 'mixologist'. Save some room for dessert as they are hard to resist, too!

La Cabane Perchée is the new Brok Café

I may break a few hearts by disclosing that Le Brok Café has changed hands, style and atmosphere altogether. However, those looking for the best spot to sip a cocktail in the sunset will fall in love with La Cabane Perchée, the roof-top bar towering above Trouville beach. Operated by former jockey Miguel Blancpain, this picturesque bar with a breathtaking view serves tapas and house cocktails all day long, as well as a magnificent brunch on weekends. With popular DJs frequently on duty behind the platins, dancing goes on until dawn, and a midnight bath always looms round the corner.

With so many new venues to try out, I am left to ponder how many lunches, aperitifs, dinners and parties one can fit into a single trip to Deauville? Or perhaps this is the very reason why the October Yearling and December Breeding Stock sales have gained so much international traction.